...in Galápagos

Bartolomé / Santa Cruz

A dinghy ride around Bartolomé, and eventually a landing, followed diving at Cousins. The dinghy rides around the island were to get better glimpses at the volcanic activity responsible for the formation of the entire region. Black lava fields, volcanic formations and spatter cones lined the shorelines around Bartolomé and Sullivan Bay, creating a unique and interesting landscape. This area was also known for having a population of Galápagos Penguin's, the second smallest Penguin species in the world, and the most northern reaching. Approach by boat seemed to be the best way to find and see them.

Bartolomé could be nicknamed "Velvia Island." With the pristine, exotic beaches, surrounded by vibrant greens and Caribbean-like blue waters, and capped with various earth-tone shades of volcanic rock, we don't know of any other film perfectly suited for bringing the colors of such a place alive. Unfortunately, we were plagued with clear blue skies and somewhat harsh light, which didn't match well with Velvia for the extensive contrast. Nonetheless, we gave it a try and as shown here, Velvia did pretty well. The landing on Bartolomé is primarily to make the hike to the peak of its volcano, where you have a spectacular view of Sullivan Bay and the surrounding islands. This also happens to be a popular day-landing spot for its scenic beaches and snorkeling opportunities, neither of which we took advantage. Overall time on the island was brief.

Our final day in the Galápagos was spent touring Puerto Ayora & Santa Cruz Island, where the Charles Darwin Research Station is located, as well as the famous giant Galápagos tortoises being raised there for reintroduction to the various islands. Also at the station is Lonesome George, a giant Galápagos tortoise, now in captivity, reported to be the last of his particular species from Pinta Island. The Research station is set up with multiple information centers and wonderful educational displays about the work they do, and about the Galápagos in general. The Station is involved in an ongoing eradication program of non-endemic species that are threatening the survival of the native tortoise populations, namely wild goats and pigs, introduced by visiting vessels in the past. Santa Cruz is one of the more human populated islands in the Galápagos, with Puerto Ayora being a rather large fishing community and tourism center.

Following the visit to the station, we were bussed to the highlands of Santa Cruz to try to find tortoises in the wild. They were known to be in certain areas of the park. We were hoping to obtain photographs similar to what we had seen published, with groups of tortoises lounging in mud baths amongst a misty rainforest-like landscape. Ok, we can dream. We were lucky to find 3 of them browsing their way through thick brush, and on approach, immediately retreated to their shells. We were surprised considering the approachability we had with wildlife for the past week. However, on second thought, the tortoises were one of the animals of these islands extensively hunted by sailors, almost to the point of extinction. If we were tortoises and saw us coming, we'd be in our shells too. It was obvious good wild photographs of these tortoises didn't come as easy, and would require much more time spent with them than we were allowed.

The evening ended with a farewell dinner at a local restaurant in Puerto Ayora, accompanied by local music. Most everyone retired early after a long week and not-so-eager anticipation of the flight back to mainland Ecuador in the morning. A final day spent in Quito allowed time for catching up on last minute shopping, reflection on the experiences we just had, and time to pack for the trip home the following day.