A quote I stumbled on recently about the Great Lakes, and in particular Lake Superior struck a chord with me. I know I am not alone in thinking that calling these bodies of water “lakes” – even if prefaced by the adjective in the name, doesn’t give them justice. We have a vast number of lakes here in Michigan, and I suppose whenever I think of “lake” – I generally think of a body of water that I can see across to the other side, however distant.
“Those who have never seen Superior get an inadequate idea by hearing it spoken of as a lake. Superior is a sea.”
~ George Grant, 1875
It is difficult enough to know some of the smallest of places, but getting to know a Great Lake may as well be as challenging as getting to know an ocean. After all, there is enough freshwater in Lake Superior to cover both North and South America with one foot of water.
A lake’s wrath
There aren’t many “lakes” that can claim the ferocity necessary to sink very large ships. The most famous wreck of course being the Great Lakes freighter, the SS Edmund Fitzgerald, which sank during a storm on November 10, 1975. Imagine the intensity necessary to bring down the largest ship of the time, 729 ft (222 m) of steel and human engineering, The downing of the Fitz however wasn’t a unique occurrence when looking at the history of the lakes and bringing down ships. By some estimates, we have 6,000 or more shipwrecks laying on the cold bottomlands of all the Great Lakes.
I’ve gone diving on a number of wrecks in Superior, though a good number of years have passed since the last one. There are some parts of the experience that simply remain etched in your memory. She’s cold – remaining near a constant 42°F (5.5°C) at recreational shipwreck depth, but can be quite warm at the surface making for an interesting decent. Passing beneath the last thermocline of freshwater temperature gradients is quite the experience. You can actually see the visual difference between the different temperature layers as you descend.
It also can be quite dark and quite haunting on these wrecks. Sometimes I wish I had some photographs from these dives, but I never wanted to burden myself with the extra equipment or task. I was already in a dry suit, which adds a degree of complexity to a dive. You have to carefully manage how it is compressing around you and being careful not to overdo the air you are adding into it. You basically add air into your suit to relieve some of the discomforts you feel from the pressure squeezing the suit around you.
If you add too much, you can get a situation where all the air can end up in your feet which makes them want to float upward. If you add too little, you can actually develop bruising from the suit squeezing you, like stepping on a peanut butter and jelly sandwich in a little sandwich baggie. (noted from experience! 🙂 )
Superior by land and sea
Exploring Superior by land isn’t as complicated, but you are still dealing with the scale. With 1,729 mi (2,783 km) of shoreline (not including the many islands), it would take quite a while. However, supposedly someone did the entire perimeter of the lake on a motorcycle and holds the record of 21 hours. The Lake Superior circle tour site suggests planning for at least 2 weeks by car. Add some extra time for the meandering photographer.
Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore is of course one of Michigan’s great gems. But as grand as it is, it is only a relatively small segment (42 of the 1729 miles) of the southern shoreline. It is also a place that is best experienced in a variety of ways – hiking, by kayak, by pontoon. Each one gives you a different perspective on the character of this iconic place.
My Superior Bucket List
As a native Michigander, I feel as if I’ve seen a lot of Lake Superior’s middle to eastern southern shoreline. I have not, however, ventured along the northern shore into Canada or explored some of the western coastlines in Minnesota. A circle tour may be in the plans one day, but for me, the North shore is a priority. I am particularly drawn to the big cliff scenics. Maybe a visit to Isle Royale? As a well-known shipwreck destination itself, it may even be tempting to explore the depths once again.
Featured Image (top): Long-exposure, Autumn color view of the Lake Superior shoreline from atop Sugarloaf Mountain in Marquette, Michigan. It was actually a bit tricky to make this photograph. I remember the wind at the time was ripping and being high with no shelter. I was also quite ill at the time, coming down with the flu which made it difficult to concentrate. I had to weigh down my tripod. Because I wanted the blur of the water and the clouds to contribute to the character of the photograph, it also meant some trees were also blowing around. I ended up needing to blend in some trees from a faster exposure for portions of the image. I seem to recall cussing under my breath thinking I hope the climb up here was worth it, and these exposures better work out because this is a lot of work and I want to go to bed!! 🙂
I’ve never been to Lake Superior but it’s something I’d enjoy doing, along with also visiting the other Great Lakes. Wonderful autumn featured photo, Mark. It appears you were shooting down on the scene. Was there high ground or is this taken with your drone?
It’s a great region to experience – at certain times of the year. Black fly season up there can be particularly trying in enjoying oneself.
On the photo, someone on IG also asked me if it was a drone photo. It is not. I was on the top of Sugarloaf Mountain which is a popular overlook spot in Marquette that requires a bit of trail and stair climbing.
You’ve put together an interesting introduction to an amazing body of water. The closest I ever got was Northport on Lake Michigan, as a 5-yr-old one summer. Not close at all, and such a long time ago. I’d love to explore this lake, to get to know even a portion of it. I guess the Canadian side will have to wait until they’re ready to have us again. 😉 Each excellent image you included is so different from the next and I bet you have dozens more. I like the opening quote, the bit of history, and the reminiscence about your diving experience. 🙂
Must be quite an experience diving and seeing the wrecks! I’ve been to Pictured Rocks around Munising. Spectacularly beautiful area.
I still get surprised by how many people in Michigan don’t know we have an area like Pictured Rocks! Thanks Howard!
I remember the first time I stood on the Superior’s shore; much like Grant, I wondered why it was called a lake when it looked more like an inland sea. The numbers of wrecks you mention does not surprise me considering the sheer size of this body of power. I only covered a tiny length of its shoreline but I can imagine how varied it would look along its entire length. But I cannot imagine what it would be like to dive to its depths 🙂
Travelling Superior’s shoreline would definitely make for a nice road trip though. Thanks for sharing your perspective on it Mark. The photos are especially lovely.
Waves do get pretty big up there. I’ve read up to 40 ft/12.2m. The “Gales of November” has become a bit of maritime folklore here as it is the stormiest season. Thanks for the kind words Cedric. I would like to make that trip happen someday.
In my opinion the climb up was well worth it because that first is a beautiful image.
I’ve never been up to the lakes and from images I’ve seen, such as yours, I’m missing out. You gave me a lesson on diving I did not know about the wet suits. Sounds like you really have to know what you’re doing. I don’t remember Lloyd Bridges mentioning anything about that. I do remember the dhe decompression he did have to go through after wrestling with gigantic octopuses. I imagine the water would be cold as I know what it’s like in cold Colorado lakes and streams. I find it interesting how little we know of areas when we do not grow up around them and some we grow up around.
Sounds like a good bucket list for you. Quit your job, do the circle, take your time. ? ?
Haha – I’ll bet there is a lot Lloyd Bridges left out! 🙂 And speaking of octopus, there is a good film on Netflix right now called “My Octopus Teacher.” Thanks Monte!
Even when I lived in Pennsylvania and Ohio I never spent much time in Michigan. The closest I’ve been to Lake Superior is a years-ago drive to Wisconsin by way of the U.P. Doesn’t exactly count!
We have friends with a place in Eagle Harbor. Maybe I can wrangle an invitation and go visit that way.
Lovely fall photo of the lakeshore!
Definitely a worthwhile trip Tom and thank you. It’s kinda a long haul to get up there and then even more driving to explore, so I get it. It takes a bit of a commitment.
I grew up in northern Minnesota and have spent considerable time on the North Shore, but except for the Apostle Islands area in Wisconsin little on the south. Did do the circle route with my parents as a young kid though.
I was watching one of the Duluth TV stations on the evening of Nov 10 1975 when a bulletin came on saying the Fitzgerald disappeared from sight and was presumed lost. It was one of those chilling moments you never forget..
Gitche Gumee – she’s a beautiful and powerful body of water
I vaguely remember the news around the Fitz. But the lore around the sinking follows anyone involved with shipwrecks even today.
I imagine if I lived closer it would open more opportunities for exploration. It must have been a great area to grow up near.